by Lorri | May 4, 2011 | UnCorked
Just home from Italy with pages of notes and findings, I aim over the next few weeks to offer helpful information about the sometimes confusing and misunderstood Chianti Classico region.
A question I’m often asked is, “What does the black rooster on the neck of the bottle represent?”
It denotes that a company is a member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. That consortium’s mission is protecting, overseeing and maintaining the prices of the Chianti Classico denomination. Exactly how the rooster was chosen comes with a legend.
In the Middle Ages, when the republics of Florence and Siena were fiercely battling for territory in the Chianti region, they came up with a novel method to end that exhausting conflict. It was agreed that two knights would set out from their respective cities and establish the border wherever they met. Departure was to be at dawn and the starting signal at each end would be a cock’s crow.
In those days, daily rhythms were still paced by natural phenomena, so the choice of rooster would be more crucial than either knight or steed. The Sienese chose a white rooster, the Florentines a black one, which they kept in a pen in the dark with no food for days, putting the poor thing in high distress.
On the day of departure, as soon as the black rooster was released from its prison, it began to crow long before dawn. The Florentine knight departed immediately while the Sienese rider had to wait until dawn, when his white rooster crowed.
The Sienese knight rode only about 7 1/2 miles before meeting the Florentine knight far short of the halfway point between Siena and Florence.
Thus, thanks to the black rooster, practically all of Chianti came under the control of the Florentine republic. And thus the emblem of the black rooster on Chianti Classico labels.
THE VALUES
- 2009 Cecchi Chianti Classico, Italy (about $14 retail)
- 2009 Straccali Chianti Classico, Italy (about $14 retail)
THE SPLURGES
- 2009 Castello D’Albola Chianti Classico, Italy (about $19 retail)
- 2009 Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico, Italy (about $28 retail)
- 2009 Piccini Chianti Classico, Italy (about $19 retail)
by Lorri | Apr 27, 2011 | UnCorked
I write often about wine labeling because it continues to be a confusing topic for many consumers, particularly with European and European-style wines.
In Europe, many wines are identified by region and with this comes a reputation. For example, Burgundy and Chablis are highly regarded as fine French wines. It is understandable that when mass producers label large, inexpensive jug red wines Burgundy and white wines Chablis and those grapes are also grown elsewhere, it causes a ruckus. Many wine regions and consumers around the world are working together to find solutions.
Champagne is an ideal example. Many people refer to anything that sparkles or bubbles as champagne. But in fact, “It’s only Champagne when the wine is from Champagne, France,” explains Sonia Smith, director of the Champagne Bureau.
The Champagne Bureau is the U.S. representative of the Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, a trade association which represents the grape growers and houses of Champagne, France. Champagne is actually one of the most regulated wine regions, yet according to the organization more than half of the sparkling wine sold in the United States is mislabeled Champagne, under a loophole in the U.S.-EU European Union Wine Accords signed in March 2007.
In September, Australia adopted the EU’s Geographical Indication System. Among other things, this means Australian winemakers will phase out the use of “Champagne,” “Port” or “Sherry” on their labels by September. The agreement also grants protection to more than 100 of Australia’s geographical indications.
Many other wine regions are working toward region protection: Napa Valley, Sonoma, Oregon, Paso Robles, Walla Walla, Long Island and Washington state in the United States and seven international regions (Jerez, Porto, Chianti Classico, Tokaj, Victoria, Rioja, Spain, and Western Australia). They signed the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place and Origin, which advocates the importance of protecting a wine’s location and name.
While labeling regulations may seem complicated and the uproar over the use of a place name on a bottle of wine a bit trivial, these protections and regulations are important for consumers as well. These ensure consumers actually get the wine they think they’re buying.
by Lorri | Apr 21, 2011 | Lorri's Wine Diary
I am taking notes furiously and can’t wait to share them from this trip. A fun piece of wine trivia to get us started is about the “black rooster” on labels from the Chianti Classico wines. I was always told the practical and political reasons behind the labeling but loved hearing the legend from the poised accent of an Italian winemaker.
In the middle ages, when the republics of Florence and Siena were fiercely battling for territory between Chianti they constructed a bizarre method to end this continuous conflict. It was agreed that two knights would set out from their respective cities and establish the border where they would meet. Departure was to be at dawn and the starting signal given by a cock’s crow. A coherent decision at the time, when daily rhythms were still paced by natural phenomena. And so the choice of rooster would be more decisive to event preparations than either knight or steed. The Sienese chose a white one, the Florentines a black, which they kept in a pen in the dark with no food for days, where the poor thing obviously was in a panic.
On the fateful day of departure, as soon as the black rooster was released from its prison it began to crow, long before dawn. Its crowing allowed the Florentine knight the advantage to depart immediately while the Sienese had to wait until dawn when his white rooster would crow signaling his departure. He only rode about 7 ½ miles before meeting the Florentine knight very quickly.
It was because of the black rooster legend all of Chianti came under the control of the Florentine republic… and of course a well told story behind the emblem of the black rooster on Chianti Classico labels.
by Lorri | Apr 20, 2011 | UnCorked
Easter celebration menus and gatherings can range from casual brunches and buffets to sit-down meals and “just desserts” egg hunts. Regardless of the setting, there’s a wine to fit almost any celebration.
Brunch: Champagne, rose, pinot grigio, Riesling, chardonnay
The charm of brunch lies in its leisurely approach in bridging the festive day activities from breakfast to well past lunch. Consider wines with the same style as your menu. If you are serving quiche and fruit then Champagne or light white wine would be ideal, but carved ham will require a more full-bodied white or rose.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Riesling, Oregon (about $13 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- NV Iron Horse Classic Brut, California (about $44 retail)
Seated lunch or dinner: pinot noir, merlot, tempranillo, beaujolais, gruner veltliner, chenin blanc, pinot gris
In most homes the traditional Easter ham generally commands the attention of the main course. Light reds without overpowering tannins or whites without searing acidity are natural pairings with hams covered in sweet, spice and salt.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Mirassou Winery Pinot Noir, California (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Hirsch Gruner Veltliner, Austria (about $21 retail)
Buffet: rose, merlot, pinot noir, gewurztraminer, Riesling
The buffet still offers the least stress and easiest way to serve guests. And you must admit, there’s something about the table laden with dishes that always creates a feeling of celebration. Serve a wine with the ability to stand up to the assortment of textures and tastes.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Yalumba Y Series Merlot, Australia (about $14 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2010 Turkey Flat Rose, Australia (about $24 retail)
Easter Egg Hunts and Chocolate: Moscato d’Asti, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, port
Of course even chocolate bunnies and marshmallow chicks have a wine pairing. But for those looking for a more refined chocolate match, keep in mind lighter chocolates pair best with light-bodied wines while full-bodied wines are best with robust darker chocolates. For example, the delicate Moscato d’Asti competes perfectly with the mellow butter flavors in many white chocolates, while cabernet sauvignon blends into perfection with full-bodied dark chocolate.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Monte Maria Moscato d’Asti, Italy (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $45 retail)
by Lorri | Apr 20, 2011 | Lorri's Wine Diary
Today, I am sitting in Italy typing my blog, embarking on a wine journey because of something I read a year ago. It was Matt Kramer’s Wine Spectator column, Are you Afraid of Italian Wines? A shocking confession: Even the experts find the country’s wines daunting. Why I’m here is because I agree.
The columns focus is around he and a fellow wine writer talking shop. When the conversation leads to a very blunt and truthful statement by his friend and an agreement by most of the wine drinkers in the world including myself. “ I’m afraid of Italian wines. It’s not that I don’t’ like them,” he said. “It’s just that they’re so damned complicated. When I first started with wine, everybody told me how difficult Burgundy is how mastering Burgundy could be a life’s work. I’ll tell you one thing: Burgundy is a breeze compared to Italian wines. “ He continued with, “Italian wines seem chaotic. I hate it when I get handed the wine list in an Italian resturant, I’m supposed to know all this stuff about wine, but it’s any kind of extensive Italian wine list I’m lost. . I’m clueless. That’s why I’m afraid of Italian wines.”
So, thus sets out my journey in Italy to better grasp just one region at a time. I will begin this chaos deciphering in Chianti and will offer cliff notes along the way.
by Lorri | Apr 13, 2011 | UnCorked
Many people relate wedding receptions with the sparkling, festive bubbles of Champagne. But many couples are looking to expand the reception offerings beyond punch, melt-away mints and cake.
Wine is often the beverage of choice. Consider a red and a white choice for receptions with a meal or heavy hors d’oeuvres. For diversity offer both even if the food pairing seems obvious. Or consider the increasingly fashionable dry rose if you are serving a single wine throughout the reception.
Sticking to a budget is a top concern for many couples, and supplying your own wine is one way to save. But before buying wine, check with the reception venue to ensure you’re allowed to provide your own wine. Local and state laws vary, as do individual venue rules, and some will require that you buy from their list or be charged a corkage fee. This charge can range from $5 to $20 per bottle. What seemed to be bargain at your local retail shop might not be once these additional fees are tallied.
As far as how much to buy, it’s better to have too much wine than to come up short. Exactly how much wine to buy depends on the time of day, number of guests and overall format of your reception. A daytime toast with wedding cake will require considerably less wine than an evening of dinner and dancing. For evening receptions, most wedding planners plan on each guest drinking two glasses of wine every two hours. This formula takes into account those who drink less or not at all and those who drink more.
The following recommendations include both bubbly and non-bubbly options.
THE VALUES
- NV Seaview Brut Sparkling Wine, Australia (about $10 retail)
- 2010 Cline Cellars North Coast Viognier, California (about $12 retail)
- 2010 Argyle Chardonnay, Oregon (about $13 retail)
- 2010 Yalumba Oxford Landing Merlot, Australia (about $10 retail)
- 2010 La Vieille Ferme Blanc, France (about $10 retail)
THE SPLURGES
- 2010 Erath Pinto Gris, Oregon (about $16 retail)
- 2010 Santa Cristina Pinot Grigio, Italy (about $16 retail)
- 2009 Villa Maria Cellar Select Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand (about $25 retail)
- NV Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs, California (around $36 retail)
