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California’s fog, wind work their magic

Every fine wine region has its own terroir — climate, soil type, topography — and it is believed these unique conditions give wines their distinct characteristics and styles.

Examples of terroir include Bordeaux’s Garonne River with its gravel and clay soils or Burgundy’s Jurassic limestone nestled in with a perfect sun exposure. California’s Monterey County has also joined this terroir club with a few geological wonders.

Beneath Monterey Bay is an enormous submarine canyon 60 miles long and two miles wide. Compared in size and depth to the Grand Canyon, the underwater canyon is sometimes called the “Blue Grand Canyon.” This canyon provides a unique climate pathway connecting the sea to the wine-growing regions of Monterey, bringing cool maritime influences with fog and wind.

The impact of the canyon is seen through a visual representation called “The Thermal Rainbow,” another term trademarked by the growing region for its diverse attributes. During the morning Monterey County is cool, about 55 degrees and mainly covered by a thick marine layer. As the sun rises the valley warms, burning off the fog and slowly heating the air. This heat forces warm air to rise and create a low-pressure effect. Cool air from the ocean is drawn and funneled through the Gabilan and Santa Lucia mountain ranges. This air flow acts as a natural airconditioning system resulting in a range of temperatures from the north to the south and allowing for slow, gentle ripening of the grapes.

Vineyards are planted specif ically within The Thermal Rainbow, with cool-climate loving pinot noir and chardonnay found mainly in the north and sunloving cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel and Rhone varieties flourishing in the south.

For more information or to plan a trip to this beautiful wine region visit their website at montereywines.org.

THE VALUES

  • 2008 Chalone Vineyards Chardonnay, California (about $18 retail)
  • 2008 The Hess Collection Monterey Chardonnay, California (about $18 retail)
  • 2008 Wente Vineyards Merlot, California (about $19 retail)

THE SPLURGES

  • 2008 J. Lohr Vineyards Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $23 retail)
  • 2008 Morgan Winery Monterey County Pinot Noir, California (about $47 retail)
  • 2007 Heller Estate Chardonnay, California (about $34 retail)

How sweet it is, and how it got there

Some consumers are seeking sweet wines, which only seems natural considering most of us love anything sweet. But somewhere along the way sweet wines were dubbed with an unsophisticated and inferior image. Truly appreciating sweet wines requires an understanding of the distinct differences in the styles.

Most sweet wines get their sweetness from added sugar or a natural viticulture process.

The sugar can come from sweet reserve juice, grape must (fresh-squeezed juice along with pulp, skin and seeds) or grape concentrate. These are added to the wine after it has been fermented. These wines are generally more simple styles and less expensive.

Mother nature also has a hand in creating utterly luscious sweet wines. French Sauternes gains its sweetness without the addition of sugars but from grapes in the vineyard. The region’s unique climate encourages a fungus known as botrytis rot, which “attacks” the grapes and causes them to shrivel and rot, concentrating the sugars.

Sweet ice wines occur only when mother nature decides to wave her magic wand over the vineyard with ripe grapes hanging late, waiting for the optimum temperature of 21 degrees to concentrate the sugars, acids and flavors. These sweet wines have no sugar added but involve painstaking and expensive processes resulting in an expected higher price tag.

What makes a wine taste sweet is based on the amount of residual sugar in it, ranging from 0 to 100 grams per liter. Following are a few examples of how to navigate retail stores for wines ranging from dry to very sweet.

 

VERY DRY | Cabernet, Chianti, Shiraz, Syrah, Brut Champagne

THE VALUE

  • 2007 Piccini Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy (about $14 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2007 Gloria Ferrer Brut Sparkling Wine, California (about $28 retail)

OFF DRY | Warm-climate Chardonnay, German “trocken,” French “sec”

THE VALUE

  • 2008 Franken Silvaner Spatlese Riesling, Germany (about $14 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2008 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay, California (about $68 retail)

MEDIUM | German Rieslings or “auslese,” Spanish “dulce” and French “doux”

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Vertikal Blue Auslese Riesling, Germany (about $18 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2007 Rudi Wiest V Buhl “Jazz” Riesling, Germany (about $24 retail)

SWEET | Hungarian Tokaji, Late Harvest Rieslings, Port, Sherry

THE VALUE

  • 2008 Polka Dot Sweet Rielsing, Germany (about $13 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2007 Tokaji Aszu 4 Puttonyos, Hungary (about $40 retail)

VERY SWEET | Icewine, Sauternes, German Beerenauslese, Amarone, French Moelleux, Italy Dolce

THE VALUE

  • 2003 Chateau d’ Armajan Sauternes, France (about $30 retail, 375 ml)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2006 Jackson Triggs Riesling Icewine, Canada (about $53 retail, 375 ml)

Done right, wine, chocolate do mix

There was a time when it was said that chocolate and wine shouldn’t be consumed together.

Pairing these two romantic treats was avoided because chocolate, like cabbage, raw asparagus and vinegar, has a reputation for misbehaving when wine is involved. But today, with a better understanding of the kinds of chocolate and its components, successful pairings are possible.

What supposedly made the two incompatible was not the chocolate at all, but the sugar, fat and flavorings in it. Considering many chocolate desserts also contain lots of sugar, fruit, dairy or even ice, the dilemma was compounded.

If the wine and chocolate are not compatible, many times a slight sour note will develop on the palate. Overoaked or extremely dry red wine will likely rob the chocolate of sweetness and the wine of its fruitiness, resulting in an unpleasant, dry, dusty flavor.

For the ideal chocolate and wine match, select chocolates with a cocoa content of at least 75 percent.

Light-bodied wines match best with mild-flavored chocolate, and full-bodied wines are best served with darker, more robust chocolate.

If in doubt, the general rule is the wine should be at least as sweet — if not sweeter — than the chocolate.

White chocolate: Framboise or moscato

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Martin Weyrich Moscato Allegro, California (about $14 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2009 Marco Negri Moscato d’ Asti, Italy (about $22 retail)

Light-bodied milk chocolate: Framboise, pinot noir or cabernet sauvignon

THE VALUE

  • 2008 Mark West Central Coast Pinot Noir, California (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2008 Siduri Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Oregon (about $22 retail)

Medium-bodied milk or semisweet chocolate: cabernet sauvignon, port, merlot or syrah

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Cupcake Central Coast Merlot, California (about $10 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • NV Sandeman 10 year Tawny Port, Portugal (about $40 retail)

Full-bodied bittersweet or dark chocolate: cabernet sauvignon or port

THE VALUE

  • NV Cowie Wine Cellars Robert’s Port, Arkansas (about $19 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2006 Robert Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $50 retail)

Expand your white wine comfort zone

Discovering new, fresh flavors is one of the great pleasures of wine exploration. If you’re looking to diversify your white wine horizons beyond the familiar chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Riesling, here are some selections to start your journey.

ALBARINO

The albarino grape is produced and grown in the northwest corner of Spain in the Rias Baixas region. Albarino is delicate and lively with aromatic characteristics that hint at peach and lime.

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Mar tin Codax Albarino, Spain (about $16 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2009 Soleira Albarino, Spain (about $25 retail)

GRUNER VELTLINER

Gruner Veltliner is primarily grown in Austria and Eastern Europe. This slightly spicy wine has distinctive notes of white pepper, mineral and grapefruit zest. Most are made in a dry, crisp simple style, but some versions can taste similar to aged French Burgundy.

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Michlits Stadlmann Gruner Veltliner, Austria (about $17 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2009 Oriel Or tolan Falkenstein Gruner Veltliner, Austria (about $25 retail)

MARSANNE

Marsanne is usually blended with viognier or roussanne to make the white wines of the Northern Rhone Valley. It’s also planted in California and Australia where the wine has a more full-bodied style. Unlike many white wines, marsanne does not have the typical fruity flavors but instead offers a rich taste of nuts, ginger and peach.

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Mas Carlot Marsanne/Roussanne, France (about $13 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2009 d’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Marsanne/ Viognier, Australia (about $18 retail)

Knowledge is power in wine buying

Choosing a wine for entertaining can be similar to the daunting task of planning the menu. Just as you wouldn’t serve spicy Indian curry to your elderly aunt (unless you knew it was her favorite), the same goes for serving your rare vintage French wine to your beer-drinking friend. Selecting the right wines to buy for your guests entails only knowing a little more about them.

Vegetarians and vegans. It’s important to commit as much forethought of the wine you serve as the food when it comes to entertaining vegetarian friends. Finding these wines is becoming easier, with many companies clearly stating on labels if the wine is suitable for vegetarians or vegans (vegetarian V, vegan VG).

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Bonterra Vineyards Chardonnay, California (about $16 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • NV Laurent Perrier Champagne, France (about $68 retail)

The Neophyte. Entertaining guests who are just learning about wines is not the time to bring out vintage or quirky oddball wines. Choose uncomplicated wines enjoyed by nearly all wine drinkers such as merlot, shiraz, chardonnay or pinot grigio.

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Yalumba Y Series Shiraz, Australia (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2008 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay, California (about $20 retail)

Snobs vs. connoisseurs. Believe it or not, the connoisseurs are easier to please than most wine snobs. They usually tend to enjoy wines that are undervalued, unique or even adventurous. If you enjoy the wine you are serving, the connoisseur most likely will relish in your selection.

Wine snobs, on the other hand, can be the most tiresome guests to entertain because they are usually label and brand conscious — and dreadfully suspicious of wines they have not tasted. The best tip is to stay with easily recognizable wines such as Napa cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay, French Chablis, French Chateauneuf-du-Pape, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Oregon or Burgundy Pinot Noir.

THE VALUE

  • 2008 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon (about $15 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2009 Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Chablis, France (about $29 retail)

The foodie. Foodies are generally looking for how the food and wine complement each other. When entertaining these guests, use your culinary strength to give the wines an opportunity to stand out. If you make superb Italian pasta, read up on Italian wines, but if French cuisine is your specialty, then French Bordeaux or Burgundies may be the perfect option. An easy tip is to choose wines that are local to the cuisine.

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Voga Pinot Grigio, Italy (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2006 Banfi Chianti Classico, Italy (about $18 retail)

Family winery finds home in Gamaliel

Last year Margie Roelands joined Arkansas’ small, but growing (some might say elite) list of winemakers, opening The Raimondo Family Winery in Gamaliel, near Mountain Home.

The Raimondo Family Wineries’ roots go back to Palermo, Sicily. When Roelands’ grandfather Marty Raymondo moved to California, he incorporated his family’s traditional Sicilian methods into his own winemaking, producing two barrels a year for enjoyment with family and friends. (The winery name was originally spelled with a “y,” but after they discovered that the family name in Italian uses an “i” the winery name was changed.)

The wines were bottled as “Grandma and Grandpa Raymondo’s Family Wine.” In the late 1980s, Roelands’ uncle Tony Raymondo took over and increased production to nine barrels, turning the family tradition into a boutique business.

On a trip to Sicily, Tony discovered the family crest and Italian spelling of the family name.

In 2005, Tony’s daughter Lisa Garcia and Roelands joined the business, continuing the tradition of producing Old World varieties such as zinfandel, sangiovese, viognier and rousanne.

Roelands’ Arkansas connection began when a family member recommended the state as a place to relocate. After a Fourth of July weekend visit to Mountain Home she and husband Brian fell in love with the picturesque mountains and lakes of the Ozarks, so much so that they bought the Blue Lady Resort, nestled on a bluff overlooking Norfork Lake in Gamaliel. It was after moving to the Natural State that Margie realized her dream of turning the family winery into a commercially operated business, the Raimondo Family Winery.

Roelands’ husband, Brian, and daughters, Jennifer and Amy, are also active in the family business. Brian manages operations at the winery and resort, while the daughters help with bottling, labeling and promotions.

The Raimondo wines are produced and bottled here in Arkansas with grapes from California. Because of labeling laws you’ll see California on the front label and “produced and bottled in Arkansas” on the back. Eventually the winery plans to create wines using local fruit and they are continuously talking to local growers for the possibility of adding a few indigenous varieties to their unique offering of wines.

Raimondo wines are available at The Cellar at Blue Lady Resort in Gamaliel and select retailers throughout Arkansas.

  • 2007 Raimondo Family Winery Tempranillo, California/Arkansas (about $16 retail)
  • 2008 Raimondo Family Winery Zinfandel Old Vine, California/Arkansas (about $14 retail)
  • 2007 Raimondo Family Winery Barbera, California/ Arkansas (about $13 retail)
  • 2009 Raimondo Family Winery Viognier, California/Arkansas (about $15 retail)