by Lorri | May 4, 2011 | UnCorked
Just home from Italy with pages of notes and findings, I aim over the next few weeks to offer helpful information about the sometimes confusing and misunderstood Chianti Classico region.
A question I’m often asked is, “What does the black rooster on the neck of the bottle represent?”
It denotes that a company is a member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. That consortium’s mission is protecting, overseeing and maintaining the prices of the Chianti Classico denomination. Exactly how the rooster was chosen comes with a legend.
In the Middle Ages, when the republics of Florence and Siena were fiercely battling for territory in the Chianti region, they came up with a novel method to end that exhausting conflict. It was agreed that two knights would set out from their respective cities and establish the border wherever they met. Departure was to be at dawn and the starting signal at each end would be a cock’s crow.
In those days, daily rhythms were still paced by natural phenomena, so the choice of rooster would be more crucial than either knight or steed. The Sienese chose a white rooster, the Florentines a black one, which they kept in a pen in the dark with no food for days, putting the poor thing in high distress.
On the day of departure, as soon as the black rooster was released from its prison, it began to crow long before dawn. The Florentine knight departed immediately while the Sienese rider had to wait until dawn, when his white rooster crowed.
The Sienese knight rode only about 7 1/2 miles before meeting the Florentine knight far short of the halfway point between Siena and Florence.
Thus, thanks to the black rooster, practically all of Chianti came under the control of the Florentine republic. And thus the emblem of the black rooster on Chianti Classico labels.
THE VALUES
- 2009 Cecchi Chianti Classico, Italy (about $14 retail)
- 2009 Straccali Chianti Classico, Italy (about $14 retail)
THE SPLURGES
- 2009 Castello D’Albola Chianti Classico, Italy (about $19 retail)
- 2009 Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico, Italy (about $28 retail)
- 2009 Piccini Chianti Classico, Italy (about $19 retail)
by Lorri | Apr 27, 2011 | UnCorked
I write often about wine labeling because it continues to be a confusing topic for many consumers, particularly with European and European-style wines.
In Europe, many wines are identified by region and with this comes a reputation. For example, Burgundy and Chablis are highly regarded as fine French wines. It is understandable that when mass producers label large, inexpensive jug red wines Burgundy and white wines Chablis and those grapes are also grown elsewhere, it causes a ruckus. Many wine regions and consumers around the world are working together to find solutions.
Champagne is an ideal example. Many people refer to anything that sparkles or bubbles as champagne. But in fact, “It’s only Champagne when the wine is from Champagne, France,” explains Sonia Smith, director of the Champagne Bureau.
The Champagne Bureau is the U.S. representative of the Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, a trade association which represents the grape growers and houses of Champagne, France. Champagne is actually one of the most regulated wine regions, yet according to the organization more than half of the sparkling wine sold in the United States is mislabeled Champagne, under a loophole in the U.S.-EU European Union Wine Accords signed in March 2007.
In September, Australia adopted the EU’s Geographical Indication System. Among other things, this means Australian winemakers will phase out the use of “Champagne,” “Port” or “Sherry” on their labels by September. The agreement also grants protection to more than 100 of Australia’s geographical indications.
Many other wine regions are working toward region protection: Napa Valley, Sonoma, Oregon, Paso Robles, Walla Walla, Long Island and Washington state in the United States and seven international regions (Jerez, Porto, Chianti Classico, Tokaj, Victoria, Rioja, Spain, and Western Australia). They signed the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place and Origin, which advocates the importance of protecting a wine’s location and name.
While labeling regulations may seem complicated and the uproar over the use of a place name on a bottle of wine a bit trivial, these protections and regulations are important for consumers as well. These ensure consumers actually get the wine they think they’re buying.
by Lorri | Apr 20, 2011 | UnCorked
Easter celebration menus and gatherings can range from casual brunches and buffets to sit-down meals and “just desserts” egg hunts. Regardless of the setting, there’s a wine to fit almost any celebration.
Brunch: Champagne, rose, pinot grigio, Riesling, chardonnay
The charm of brunch lies in its leisurely approach in bridging the festive day activities from breakfast to well past lunch. Consider wines with the same style as your menu. If you are serving quiche and fruit then Champagne or light white wine would be ideal, but carved ham will require a more full-bodied white or rose.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Riesling, Oregon (about $13 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- NV Iron Horse Classic Brut, California (about $44 retail)
Seated lunch or dinner: pinot noir, merlot, tempranillo, beaujolais, gruner veltliner, chenin blanc, pinot gris
In most homes the traditional Easter ham generally commands the attention of the main course. Light reds without overpowering tannins or whites without searing acidity are natural pairings with hams covered in sweet, spice and salt.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Mirassou Winery Pinot Noir, California (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Hirsch Gruner Veltliner, Austria (about $21 retail)
Buffet: rose, merlot, pinot noir, gewurztraminer, Riesling
The buffet still offers the least stress and easiest way to serve guests. And you must admit, there’s something about the table laden with dishes that always creates a feeling of celebration. Serve a wine with the ability to stand up to the assortment of textures and tastes.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Yalumba Y Series Merlot, Australia (about $14 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2010 Turkey Flat Rose, Australia (about $24 retail)
Easter Egg Hunts and Chocolate: Moscato d’Asti, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, port
Of course even chocolate bunnies and marshmallow chicks have a wine pairing. But for those looking for a more refined chocolate match, keep in mind lighter chocolates pair best with light-bodied wines while full-bodied wines are best with robust darker chocolates. For example, the delicate Moscato d’Asti competes perfectly with the mellow butter flavors in many white chocolates, while cabernet sauvignon blends into perfection with full-bodied dark chocolate.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Monte Maria Moscato d’Asti, Italy (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $45 retail)
by Lorri | Apr 13, 2011 | UnCorked
Many people relate wedding receptions with the sparkling, festive bubbles of Champagne. But many couples are looking to expand the reception offerings beyond punch, melt-away mints and cake.
Wine is often the beverage of choice. Consider a red and a white choice for receptions with a meal or heavy hors d’oeuvres. For diversity offer both even if the food pairing seems obvious. Or consider the increasingly fashionable dry rose if you are serving a single wine throughout the reception.
Sticking to a budget is a top concern for many couples, and supplying your own wine is one way to save. But before buying wine, check with the reception venue to ensure you’re allowed to provide your own wine. Local and state laws vary, as do individual venue rules, and some will require that you buy from their list or be charged a corkage fee. This charge can range from $5 to $20 per bottle. What seemed to be bargain at your local retail shop might not be once these additional fees are tallied.
As far as how much to buy, it’s better to have too much wine than to come up short. Exactly how much wine to buy depends on the time of day, number of guests and overall format of your reception. A daytime toast with wedding cake will require considerably less wine than an evening of dinner and dancing. For evening receptions, most wedding planners plan on each guest drinking two glasses of wine every two hours. This formula takes into account those who drink less or not at all and those who drink more.
The following recommendations include both bubbly and non-bubbly options.
THE VALUES
- NV Seaview Brut Sparkling Wine, Australia (about $10 retail)
- 2010 Cline Cellars North Coast Viognier, California (about $12 retail)
- 2010 Argyle Chardonnay, Oregon (about $13 retail)
- 2010 Yalumba Oxford Landing Merlot, Australia (about $10 retail)
- 2010 La Vieille Ferme Blanc, France (about $10 retail)
THE SPLURGES
- 2010 Erath Pinto Gris, Oregon (about $16 retail)
- 2010 Santa Cristina Pinot Grigio, Italy (about $16 retail)
- 2009 Villa Maria Cellar Select Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand (about $25 retail)
- NV Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs, California (around $36 retail)
by Lorri | Apr 6, 2011 | UnCorked
Last week I wrote about which wines to pair with takeout burgers, Mexican and Italian foods.
This week the focus is on the more exotic flavors of Asian, Indian and Thai.
Each cuisine poses particular challenges for wine pairing, but finding the right match isn’t impossible.
For Asian dishes and sushi accented with the hallmark flavors of wasabi, soy sauce and vinegar, it’s important to find a wine that doesn’t compete. Consider Champagne, Riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewurztraminer, pinot noir or a custom-made sushi wine.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Hess Select Chardonnay, California (about $13 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Firesteed Riesling, Oregon (about $19 retail)
It’s not that a wine can’t match the spicy tastes of Indian food and curry, but generally the food simply overwhelms the wine. However, not all Indian dishes are fiery hot and many have differing degrees of spiciness. For milder dishes consider sauvignon blanc, viognier and roses but for hotter dishes riper, more full-bodied wines similar to gewurztraminer make the match-up.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Pine Ridge Winery Viognier/Chenin Blanc, California (about $14 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2007 Halleck Vineyard Gewurztraminer, California (about $28 retail)
Thai food is generally hot but the dominant flavors — ginger, lime, lemongrass and coriander — are all surprisingly wine-friendly. Look for wines with high acidity to tackle the spiciness, sparkling to cut through the fat of tempura and avoid tannin at all cost. Ideal match-ups are muscadet, sauvignon blanc, verdelho, chardonnay and albarino.
THE VALUE
- 2008 Root One Chardonnay, Chile (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2008 Argyle Willamette Valley Chardonnay, Oregon (about $20 retail)
by Lorri | Mar 30, 2011 | UnCorked
With our hurried lifestyles, many of us turn to takeout for dinner during the week. But just because it’s a Chinese night doesn’t mean you have to settle for soda or beer. Finding the right wine to open once you get home with those ever popular “to-go” dinners can make a drive-through meal feel like sit-down dining.
This week features pairings for burgers, Mexican and Italian. Next week we’ll cover Asian, Indian and Thai.
Burgers are an easy pairup with robust reds. It’s not just the beef that harmonizes but the array of cheeses ranging from classic American to the gourmet offerings of blue, Stilton or havarti. Choosing a zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon or malbec over lighter styles allows the wines an opportunity to complement and not compete.
THE VALUE
- 2008 Gnarly Head Zinfandel, California 9 (about $14 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Layer Cake Malbec, Australia (about $22 retail)
There are plenty of matches that work well with the spicy, bold flavors of Mexican dishes. Tacos and burritos can be filled with practically any meat, fish or vegetable, all allowing for great versatility and wine pairing. Seafood: Pinot grigio, Riesling or sauvignon blanc. Meat: Pinot noir, sangiovese or malbec. Chicken: Pinot noir, merlot or sangiovese
THE VALUE
- 2008 Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo, Chile (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2008 Gloria Ferrer Carneros Pinot Noir, California (about $28 retail)
Consider the meat and sauce when it comes to paring Italian dishes and pizza with wine. For hearty red sauces or meat lovers’ pizza topped with Canadian bacon, sausage, or beef, look for more hearty robust reds such as Barbera, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz or sangiovese. For light sauces, vegetarian or seafood toppings stay with mediumbodied styles of chardonnay, pinot noir or sauvignon blanc.
THE VALUE
- 2009 Jacob’s Creek Shiraz, Australia (about $9 retail)
THE SPLURGE
- 2009 Monkey Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand (about $20 retail)
